Posted by: andrewedwardmorgan | November 13, 2007

A Shower and a Chat in Houma, Louisiana

Taken from my journal entry for Friday 11/9/07

I met Perry and Lep through Warmshowers.com. They live in a beautiful home they built themselves out of salvaged materials in Houma, Louisiana. Avid recumbent cyclists, Perry and Lep often host passing cyclists at their house for a night or two (by Perry’s estimate, they’ve had between 40-50 cyclists stay with them over the years.)

Lep, 62, and Perry, 53

Above:  Lep, Perry, and their two dogs.

Lep, 62, is a stocky guy who looks far younger than he actually is. He has a smile that comes easy to him and looks comfortable in a T-shirt, baseball hat, and jeans. A few years ago, Lep started a pallet business by collecting and selling discarded pallets from food stores. Before the pallet work he was a mechanic, but he comes from a family of shrimp brokers. He’s incredibly handy and is able to see a simplicity in homebuilding that most people are blind to.

Perry is a carpenter and has short hair and glasses. She is nine years younger than Lep and, like Lep, has been married before. Perry speaks with an authoritative tone but is as warm and inquisitive as anyone else I have met so far on the trip. Confidence emanates from her like smoke from a bonfire.

The two dogs that the couple have are treated like members of the family. They have their own couch and both Perry and Lep speak to them as if they were human. In return, the dogs are extremely well-behaved and affectionate.

After a feast of pasta, salad, and French bread, we started talking about my trip. I told Perry and Lep about some of the projects I was working on with different schools. When I explained the project on race, their ears perked up. We began down the conversational path that has come to feel so familiar on this trip, the one that leads straight to honest questions and answers about the dynamic between blacks, whites, and immigrants (often referred to as Mexicans along my route so far) in the U.S.

“You know what’s strange?” Lep asked. “Huge amounts of people in Louisiana are on welfare, many of them black, and they don’t want to work. But at the same time, tons of Mexicans crossing the border do want to work, and they work hard. It seems odd to me that the people who want to work are the ones who have trouble staying here legally, but the ones who don’t want to work have no problem collecting welfare, generation after generation. Either way, the politicians love both groups.”

“Why’s that?” I asked.

“Because they both can be manipulated. You think a black person on welfare is going to speak out against the government? That’s slapping the hand that feeds you.”

The simple power of this statement caught me off guard and left me speechless. I had never thought of welfare being used in this way before. A nightmarish image flashed across my mind of a man opening up an envelope containing his welfare check and seeing that the check itself was no bigger than the paper inside a fortune cookie.

By Lep’s read on the situation, one check floats the recipient to the next island of desperation at a speed at which only survival, unthreatening survival, is all one can focus on. Over time, children are taught to live like their parents and the cycle keeps repeating itself.

****

“You ever heard the phrase ‘in your face’ before?” Lep asked later in the conversation.

“Yeah, I think I know what you’re talking about.” I imagined a literal definition of the phrase, someone actually standing close to someone else’s face.

In your face sums up the attitude blacks have toward whites around here. You ever see them driving around with loud music blaring from their cars? That’s in your face. The baggy pants that they have to hold up with one hand? That’s in your face. Them walking around in groups in the middle of the day and not working? In your face. It’s like they always try to challenge you. Like you owe them somethin but nobody knows exactly what.”

“Huh.” I didn’t know what to say.

****

Perry and Lep's place.

Above:  The beautiful house that Perry and Lep built

The next morning, Perry and I spoke about The Storm. She had a hypothesis about why people didn’t evacuate before The Storm and why chaos ensued in New Orleans after it passed.

“What you saw on TV, all that stealing and disrespect, that was the result of 100,000 people fiendin’, craving.”

“Craving what?” I asked, unsure of what she was getting at.

“Crack! Drugs! A huge percentage of the black population in New Orleans before The Storm were addicts. The Storm wiped out their supply and interrupted their routines. All that evil you saw in the city after The Storm was from addicts not getting their fixes.”

I had never heard this explanation before.

“And why do you think people didn’t evacuate before the storm?” She paused and waited for an answer.

“They couldn’t afford to evacuate?” I said, knowing I was about to hear something different, something not so widely accepted.

“No no. Can’t afford a $20 bus ticket? No, come on. They didn’t want to leave their dealers. You think an addict, a daily user, is going to get on a bus and leave the only thing that gets em up in the morning, keeps em going? No. They stayed because they had to.”

doorbell at Perry and Lep's

Above:  Doorbell at Perry and Lep’s

Perry told me about how she managed a liquor/convenience store in the ghetto for six years. She saw mothers come in to buy beer with their hungry children. She greeted the line of customers that would be waiting for her to open shop each day so they could buy beer. At 5:00 a.m. She told me about one man who cleaned cars and used to buy his alcohol with sticky coins he pulled up from the cracks of car seats.

Despite some of the comments Perry and Lep made about black people, comments that, to me, seemed harsh in their ridigness and unfair in the way they made assumptions, they still had close black friends. I’ve met many people in the south who feel and act the same way. It’s as if they maintain sweeping generalizations about black people but make exceptions for the black people they become close with, people they meet and speak to. How many positive interactions must a person have with members of a different race before he/she starts thinking positively of the race as a whole? Should we as people even do that, even generalize in that way?

When I loaded up the bike and was about to pull away out of Perry’s driveway, she spotted three black men down the street.

“You see that? You see them walking in the middle of the street like that with the baggy pants? That’s in your face.  Look at that,” she said.

“Yeah, I see them,” I said, stopping short of agreeing with her.

We said good-bye and I rode down the road. The three men walked into a house before we had a chance to say hello.

inside of the beautiful home Perry and Lep built by hand.  all the wood and brick you see are salvaged materials from another house

Above:  Inside of Perry and Lep’s place.  All the wood and brick you see has been salvaged from another house

 

Responses

Andrew,

Lep’s comments comparing illegal immigrants and blacks are so perceptive. It gives all of us reading your blog a clear insight into things from the point of view of a well-off white person in the south. It would be great if you could find out what the “Mexicans” and blacks think about these same issues!

Love,
Dad

You bring up a good point - is deciding that you like a race as a whole just as racist as deciding that you don’t? Wouldn’t the enlightened thing be to judge each black person individually, based on his or her character? I think sweeping generalizations, negative or positve, are dangerous territory.

Wow! This one ought to spawn some great discussions! Once again, Andrew, your shared experience helps us to think about these very complex issues. Thanks!

Hi Andrew. I hope your rides have been pleasant. You were a mannerly guest, but I had a queasy feeling when I realized you had such an interest in the “race” issue. Sure it’s the south, sure it’s ugly, but it sure is for real. If some wouldn’t stir the “race” pot so much, maybe people would just be people. Crime has gone through the roof in New Orleans, it is the murder capital. Before and after the storm, every group, individual or anyone (including myself) that wanted to make a difference has poured their hearts into making a positive difference in New Orleans and the south in general. Programs weren’t necessarily aimed at blacks, but that was the bullseye of the need. I personally am sick to death of the “race” issue. It’s a skewed playing field now, and no one can say anything without stepping on someone’s toes. I’m sick of young men, black or white, with their pants down the crack of their behinds, no manners, no respect for property or mankind. I’m sick of young women having babies that they don’t take care of. I’m sick of thug music with the worst profanity and violent lyrics played so loud you hear it blocks away. My goodness, what about the American Indians, the Alaskans, the Hawaiins…they’ve all been downtrodden. What makes anyone a victim but their own actions in this modern age?
I realize you write what’s important to you, but there are holes in your story and omissions too. If you really are unbiased, then why have all the hosts and benefactors you’ve written about have all been white?

Oh, by the way…St. Charles St. in New Orleans was never flooded, so it hasn’t been “offensively” rebuilt. It has endured hurricanes and time just fine. But the residents there suffered through months of hardship along with everyone else.
The oldtimers who originally settled there, had enough sense to build on a naturally high ridge.

Andrew,

I feel like a reading posts like this one. Following your adventure seems less like a trip down the road (a very long one at that), and more like a peek into some of those windows lit up along the way. The diversity of the human race is so clearly exhibited through the incredible range of perspectives on the same few issues.

While you may have many kilometres of road between your posts, and those of us reading you posts are probably doing it from the same seat every time, I can’t help but feel that we are all getting closer to the same destination of better understanding the people around us.

Thank you for bearing the blisters, and sharing the insight.

Lotsa respect from Nagano.
Keep those tires spinning!

Perry,

Thanks for the comment.

I’ve been trying to post about issues that keep coming up in conversations I have with people I meet along the way. Race, so far, has been one of those issues. Often, people bring it up without me even asking about it, but because I am working with a teacher in New Jersey on a project that is focused on race, if the conversation heads that way, I’ll ask about it.

I didn’t write about the range of topics we talked about because:

1. I only have a certain amount of time to write each day

2. Based on emails and comments I’ve received, the opinions on race described on this website are things a lot of the site’s readers are interested in and curious about.

I’m trying to post honestly about the spectrum of opinions on race I’ve been encountering on the ride to help readers (many of whom are students specifically reading race-related texts this year) think about the subject.

I in no way meant to portray you and Lep as anything other than the gracious hosts you were, and I don’t think I did, but at the same time I don’t think there is anything wrong in honestly asking and writing about the question inspired by our conversations:

At what point should positive (or negative) interactions with a few specific people of a certain race affect our opinions of that race as a whole? Or, as I asked in the entry, is it even fair to do that?

I know I have only stayed with white people so far. This isn’t something I’ve purposely been trying to do. I’ve requested to stay with black hosts already on Couchsurfing.com, I’ve talked with black people in passing at rest stops and cafes, but no invitations to stay the night have ever resulted from those requests/conversations.

I still have a few weeks left in the states before I cross into Mexico and hope that I’ll be able to stay with and talk more with black people along my route to learn more about other perspectives on the race issue.

best regards,

Andrew

This is never an easy topic, but look at the dialogue you’ve started! Even if we don’t come to an agreement, getting people to openly discuss race is a huge step forward.

Love you!

–M

Hi Andrew,

You are truly “on the ground” with “real” people and I must tell you that your views, writing, and perceptions seem to be “spot on”.

Keep up the good work and a gain, Thank you!

Jack

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